The Buleleng Coast; Vineyards of Bali

Bali has been acknowledged as the center of the wine industry for more than 30 years. It was the founder of Hatten Wines, Ida Bagus Rai Budarsa, who, in the first place, created Hatten Rosé, a rosé wine made from the table grape Alphonso Lavallée, mostly grown in the North of Bali, Buleleng Regency. Looking back at the history where this varietal (including Probolinggo Biru) was introduced during the Dutch Colonial period and spread across Java, Bali, and Sulawesi, initially as table grapes, North Bali has been seen as the most productive grape producer for table wines and primarily to fulfill the needs of the winery.

Observation deck at on Hatten wines Vineyard

I was raised in Buleleng, where I recall that the thick-skinned, sour to medium sweet, and tannic black grapes typically available in the traditional market were piled in bamboo baskets. Most of us only knew this type as an addition to our 'banten raka', the fruit offerings to the gods we made during our religion's festive days; the black purplish color added a special spectrum among the red water apple, mango, banana, mangosteen, and beautifully woven young coconut leaves and flowers. The green and red table grapes were very rare during that time and were very expensive.

The black table grapes that we knew as Anggur Buleleng or Anggur Bali, or Buleleng's Grape, are Alphonse Lavallée. With the knowledge that the area enjoys year-round sunshine, these grapes are harvested three times annually. However, we lacked the expertise to transform them into a premium product. When the harvest was successful, the price of these grapes plummeted, which was unappealing to the farmers.

Vine in one of the vineyard at Buleleng Coast

In 1998, when wines were regarded as ultra-luxury items, the idea of drinking a rosé made from local table grapes seemed unthinkable. This changed due to the booming tourism industry in southern Bali. The initial launch was successful, and following the rosé wine, more wine styles have been introduced to the market. These are either 100% produced in Bali or hybrid products, where juices are sourced globally and fermented locally.

Currently, there are about five wine producers in Indonesia, all situated in Bali. The vineyards are located in the North of Bali, a region that we affectionately refer to as the Buleleng Coast. This area cultivates not only Alphonse Lavallee but also other grape varieties; the (not indigenous Indonesia) grape variety that are Probolinggo Biru and Muscat St Vallier and also other grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Collombard and Chenin Blanc. Additionally, in certain villages, table grape farming has gained popularity, and the harvest prices remain significantly stable.

The Vineyards; Terroir

In North Bali, a vast coastal region showcases a unique landscape with a narrow strip of land close to the warm black sand beaches, alongside Bukit Wanagiri (Wanagiri Hill) which rises 2,300 meters above sea level and contributes to the cold climate. Imagine this area as a smaller rendition of Chile. The long stretch of coastline is perfect for orchards and rice fields located in the vineyards lie close to the shores, alongside the warm Bali Strait, provides the region with tropical humidity and a maritime breeze. The water supply comes from the nearest creek. The weather is warm and humid year round, with wet (rainy season) in November to February, when mostly the farmers have found more challenges in keeping the fruits at it best for wine.

Bukit Wanagiri as a background of the vineyard

Future for Buleleng Coast

Buleleng Regency, situated 80 kilometers from Denpasar in the south of Bali, has been enhancing its agricultural potential. The main commodities include coconuts, coffee plantations, and clove orchards. Grapes are emerging as the next significant crop due to the rising demand for table grapes and wine production. Local wines are gaining popularity among both residents and tourists. Additionally, wine tourism, which involves vineyard visits and wine making workshops are becoming an intriguing program to develop in the region. As Bali is the only area in Indonesia that has introduced grape cultivation for winemaking, the opportunity for developing wine tourism along the Buleleng Coast is significant. I would say in the future, when people say Buleleng, what they will remember is the grape, the vineyards and its wine. Cheer!